• Calculating Active Content Calculating Active Content

    Posted on by Carol Wu

    Name

    Symbol

    Coefficient

    Percent

    %

    10-2

    Per-mille

    10-3

    Parts per million

    ppm

    10-6

    Parts per billion

    ppb

    10-9

    Parts per trillion

    ppt

    10-12


    Gram

    Symbol

    Name

    103 g

    Kg

    Kilogram

    1 g

    g

    Gram

    10-3 g

    mg

    Milligram

    10-6 g

    ug

    Microgram

    10-9 g

    ng

    Nanogram

    10-12 g

    pg

    Picogram


    Parts per million (ppm) is a measurement of chemical concentration (active content) of a liquid solution.  1ppm is expressed as 1 milligram per 1,000,000 milligram which can also be written as 0.001g/Kg (please refer to the above unit conversion table).  When the solution is water, then 1 Kg is approximately 1 Liter, and can also be written as 1mg/L.

    ppm is often used in active ingredients that use at very low concentration.  For example, pure 100% copper tri-peptide comes in powder form, and the usual suggested concentration varies from 2ppm - 50ppm.  That means using 0.002g/kg - 0.05g/kg of your product.

    How to convert ppm to % ?

    P(%) = P(ppm) ÷ 1,000,000 x 100

     

    Name

    Symbol

    Coefficient

    Percent

    %

    10-2

    Per-mille

    10-3

    Parts per million

    ppm

    10-6

    Parts per billion

    ppb

    10-9

    Parts per trillion

    ppt

    10-12


    Gram

    Symbol

    Name

    103 g

    Kg

    Kilogram

    1 g

    g

    Gram

    10-3 g

    mg

    Milligram

    10-6 g

    ug

    Microgram

    10-9 g

    ng

    Nanogram

    10-12 g

    pg

    Picogram


    Parts per million (ppm) is a measurement of chemical concentration (active content) of a liquid solution.  1ppm is expressed as 1 milligram per 1,000,000 milligram which can also be written as 0.001g/Kg (please refer to the above unit conversion table).  When the solution is water, then 1 Kg is approximately 1 Liter, and can also be written as 1mg/L.

    ppm is often used in active ingredients that use at very low concentration.  For example, pure 100% copper tri-peptide comes in powder form, and the usual suggested concentration varies from 2ppm - 50ppm.  That means using 0.002g/kg - 0.05g/kg of your product.

    How to convert ppm to % ?

    P(%) = P(ppm) ÷ 1,000,000 x 100

     

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  • Bentonite Clay vs Ghassoul Clay Bentonite Clay vs Ghassoul Clay

    Posted on by Carol Wu

    Bentonite clay and ghassoul clay are both very popular and nutrient-rich clay for the hair, face, and body. They both have the abilities to detoxify, to absorb impurities, to exfoliate & cleanse the skin, and to remove product build up & dirty from the hair and scalp.

    Bentonite Clay

    Bentonite clay is a white grayish colored clay that is obtained mainly from volcanic ash in the USA.  It has negative charged ions, and a high concentration of minerals like aluminum, calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium and silica.

    The negative charged ions within the bentonite clay's structure gives the clay a very powerful detoxifying effect, drawing out positively charged toxins and impurities out of the skin.  

    For hair care, bentonite clay removes dirt and product build up from conventional shampoo and conditioner.

    For face mask, the powerful drawing effect from bentonite clay maybe a little harsh to sensitive skin.  I recommend using bentonite clay once a week or less, and only leave on for a short time.

    Ghassoul Clay

    Ghassoul clay (Rhassoul clay), is pinkish gray clay that is naturally mined in the Atlas mountain of Morocco. It is widely used by Moroccan women for hair care and face mask. Ghassoul clay also has negative charged ions and high concentration of aluminum, calcium, iron, magnesium, and silica.

    The negative charged ions also gives ghassoul the powder to detoxify. It is often used to unclogging pores, clearing blackheads, drawing out toxins & impurities, and sucking oil around hair follicles.

    For hair care, ghassoul clay removes dirt & product build up on the hair and scalp.  It also reduces dryness in the hair and improves hair elasticity, leaving the hair soft and moisturized.

    For face mask, ghassoul clay draws out toxins & impurities from the skin, and it tend to be more skin friendly than bentonite clay and suitable for daily uses.

    Conclusion

    If you need something strong, bentonite clay is the one to go with. If you need something gentle while adding moisture and balancing between dry and oily skin, ghassoul clay is right for you.  You may use Ghassoul Clay daily, and bentonite clay for weekly or monthly deep cleansing.

    Bentonite clay and ghassoul clay are both very popular and nutrient-rich clay for the hair, face, and body. They both have the abilities to detoxify, to absorb impurities, to exfoliate & cleanse the skin, and to remove product build up & dirty from the hair and scalp.

    Bentonite Clay

    Bentonite clay is a white grayish colored clay that is obtained mainly from volcanic ash in the USA.  It has negative charged ions, and a high concentration of minerals like aluminum, calcium, iron, magnesium, potassium and silica.

    The negative charged ions within the bentonite clay's structure gives the clay a very powerful detoxifying effect, drawing out positively charged toxins and impurities out of the skin.  

    For hair care, bentonite clay removes dirt and product build up from conventional shampoo and conditioner.

    For face mask, the powerful drawing effect from bentonite clay maybe a little harsh to sensitive skin.  I recommend using bentonite clay once a week or less, and only leave on for a short time.

    Ghassoul Clay

    Ghassoul clay (Rhassoul clay), is pinkish gray clay that is naturally mined in the Atlas mountain of Morocco. It is widely used by Moroccan women for hair care and face mask. Ghassoul clay also has negative charged ions and high concentration of aluminum, calcium, iron, magnesium, and silica.

    The negative charged ions also gives ghassoul the powder to detoxify. It is often used to unclogging pores, clearing blackheads, drawing out toxins & impurities, and sucking oil around hair follicles.

    For hair care, ghassoul clay removes dirt & product build up on the hair and scalp.  It also reduces dryness in the hair and improves hair elasticity, leaving the hair soft and moisturized.

    For face mask, ghassoul clay draws out toxins & impurities from the skin, and it tend to be more skin friendly than bentonite clay and suitable for daily uses.

    Conclusion

    If you need something strong, bentonite clay is the one to go with. If you need something gentle while adding moisture and balancing between dry and oily skin, ghassoul clay is right for you.  You may use Ghassoul Clay daily, and bentonite clay for weekly or monthly deep cleansing.

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  • Liquid Herbal Extracts (Tintures) Liquid Herbal Extracts (Tintures)

    Posted on by Carol Wu

    Plants and herbs store many beneficial compounds inside the plant and by using different methods of extraction, we are able to extract the beneficial compounds out of the herb fiber and transform into liquid concentrate.  Some customers would ask if it is the same if we eat the plants?  It’s one possible way, but it is not quite practical to eat kilograms of plants.

    So, what are extracts?  There are many kinds and forms of herbal extracts, they can be from different part of plants, flowers, roots, barks, leaves, buds, resins…etc, and each extract has its own benefits.

    Herbal extracts can also be extracted using different methods,

    • Alcohol Extraction
    • Glycerin Extraction
    • Oil Extraction
    • BG-PG Extraction
    • Active Plant Cells Extraction
    • and more...

    Most customers are confused with the different extraction methods, and I will go over the most common ones in cosmetic industry.  Keep in mind when buying extract you should know its solubility.  In general, alcohol, glycerin, and BG-PG extracts are water soluble while oil extract is water insoluble.

    Alcohol Extraction

    Alcohol is an excellent solvent for extracting and preserving many herb constituents.  The amount of alcohol in an alcohol liquid extract can vary from 20% - 90% depending on the herb and the alcohol concentration (In general 25% - 60% at 90% alcohol concentration).  The advantages of using alcohol in extraction are, it is able to dissolve herb constituents that are poorly soluble in water and vice versa, it acts as a preservative, and it is a good carrying agent.  The disadvantage of using alcohol are that it may denature some of the organic compounds of the herb, and some people are sensitive to alcohol.

    Glycerin (Glycerol) Extraction

    Glycerin is a clear, colorless, odorless viscous liquid that is widely used in many skincare products as humectant and moisturizer.  When glycerin is used in extraction, it is a good solvent for extracting herb constituents. In general, a glycerin extract has a mixture ratio of 60% or more glycerin to 40% or less water, and preservatives. The advantages of using glycerin in extraction are, it is a good alternative to alcohol for pets, children, or people who are sensitive to alcohol, and it is less likely to denature the organic compounds of the herb.  The disadvantages of glycerin extract are, it is less efficient in preservation than alcohol, and some argue that it is less potent than the alcohol extract thus requiring a higher dosage when using glycerin extract.

    Oil Extraction

    Oil extraction is commonly known as oil infusion (infused / macerated oil).  It is an extraction of oil soluble components through the soaking of plant material in vegetable based oil such as sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or jojoba oil.  Usually it is done by using dried herbs because moisture will cause the oil to go rancid.  Given it is 100% oil based the advantage of using the oil extraction method is it does not need the addition of preservative, however you may add antioxidant to extent the shelf life.

    Hydroglycolic Extract

    Hydroglycolic extracts are created using Butylene Glycol (BG) or Propylene Glycol (PG). BG & PG are both byproduct of petroleum.  They are both used as solvent in the extraction process.  PG or BG extracts were most popular in the past with a general mixture ratio of 50% water and 50% PG or BG.  The advantages of PG-BG extracts are it is thin and light, it quickly dissolves in water, and it is cost effective for the manufacturer.  The disadvantage of PG-BG extract is, today there is a growing popularity of glycerin extracts over PG / BG extracts.

    Active Plant Cells Extract

    Unlike conventional herbal extracts we have discussed above, active plant cells extract is a biotechnology.  It starts from obtaining plant cells from the plant and growing the “mother cells” in the culture medium.  Then the mother cells produce the active plant cells, and filtered out the excess materials.  Active plant cells may come in 2 forms, liquid form and powder form.  The liquid form is similar to glycerin extract and hydroglycolic extract but at a higher rate of actives, and the powder form is 100% active.

    The advantages:

    1. The active ingredients are “Pure” without environmental contamination.
    2. The active plant cells are not genetically-modified.
    3. It is independent to season, crop, nor location, and therefore quality is completely controlled.
    4. As it is more concentrated than conventional extracts, dosage can start from 0.5% in formulation.

    The disadvantage of using active plant cells extract is it is very costly.

    For informational purposes only. This information is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

    Plants and herbs store many beneficial compounds inside the plant and by using different methods of extraction, we are able to extract the beneficial compounds out of the herb fiber and transform into liquid concentrate.  Some customers would ask if it is the same if we eat the plants?  It’s one possible way, but it is not quite practical to eat kilograms of plants.

    So, what are extracts?  There are many kinds and forms of herbal extracts, they can be from different part of plants, flowers, roots, barks, leaves, buds, resins…etc, and each extract has its own benefits.

    Herbal extracts can also be extracted using different methods,

    • Alcohol Extraction
    • Glycerin Extraction
    • Oil Extraction
    • BG-PG Extraction
    • Active Plant Cells Extraction
    • and more...

    Most customers are confused with the different extraction methods, and I will go over the most common ones in cosmetic industry.  Keep in mind when buying extract you should know its solubility.  In general, alcohol, glycerin, and BG-PG extracts are water soluble while oil extract is water insoluble.

    Alcohol Extraction

    Alcohol is an excellent solvent for extracting and preserving many herb constituents.  The amount of alcohol in an alcohol liquid extract can vary from 20% - 90% depending on the herb and the alcohol concentration (In general 25% - 60% at 90% alcohol concentration).  The advantages of using alcohol in extraction are, it is able to dissolve herb constituents that are poorly soluble in water and vice versa, it acts as a preservative, and it is a good carrying agent.  The disadvantage of using alcohol are that it may denature some of the organic compounds of the herb, and some people are sensitive to alcohol.

    Glycerin (Glycerol) Extraction

    Glycerin is a clear, colorless, odorless viscous liquid that is widely used in many skincare products as humectant and moisturizer.  When glycerin is used in extraction, it is a good solvent for extracting herb constituents. In general, a glycerin extract has a mixture ratio of 60% or more glycerin to 40% or less water, and preservatives. The advantages of using glycerin in extraction are, it is a good alternative to alcohol for pets, children, or people who are sensitive to alcohol, and it is less likely to denature the organic compounds of the herb.  The disadvantages of glycerin extract are, it is less efficient in preservation than alcohol, and some argue that it is less potent than the alcohol extract thus requiring a higher dosage when using glycerin extract.

    Oil Extraction

    Oil extraction is commonly known as oil infusion (infused / macerated oil).  It is an extraction of oil soluble components through the soaking of plant material in vegetable based oil such as sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or jojoba oil.  Usually it is done by using dried herbs because moisture will cause the oil to go rancid.  Given it is 100% oil based the advantage of using the oil extraction method is it does not need the addition of preservative, however you may add antioxidant to extent the shelf life.

    Hydroglycolic Extract

    Hydroglycolic extracts are created using Butylene Glycol (BG) or Propylene Glycol (PG). BG & PG are both byproduct of petroleum.  They are both used as solvent in the extraction process.  PG or BG extracts were most popular in the past with a general mixture ratio of 50% water and 50% PG or BG.  The advantages of PG-BG extracts are it is thin and light, it quickly dissolves in water, and it is cost effective for the manufacturer.  The disadvantage of PG-BG extract is, today there is a growing popularity of glycerin extracts over PG / BG extracts.

    Active Plant Cells Extract

    Unlike conventional herbal extracts we have discussed above, active plant cells extract is a biotechnology.  It starts from obtaining plant cells from the plant and growing the “mother cells” in the culture medium.  Then the mother cells produce the active plant cells, and filtered out the excess materials.  Active plant cells may come in 2 forms, liquid form and powder form.  The liquid form is similar to glycerin extract and hydroglycolic extract but at a higher rate of actives, and the powder form is 100% active.

    The advantages:

    1. The active ingredients are “Pure” without environmental contamination.
    2. The active plant cells are not genetically-modified.
    3. It is independent to season, crop, nor location, and therefore quality is completely controlled.
    4. As it is more concentrated than conventional extracts, dosage can start from 0.5% in formulation.

    The disadvantage of using active plant cells extract is it is very costly.

    For informational purposes only. This information is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.

    Read more

  • Kala Namak (Himalayan Black Salt) Kala Namak (Himalayan Black Salt)

    Posted on by Carol Wu

    Kala Namak also known as the Himalayan Black Salt is a type rock salt produced mainly from the Himalayas of Nepal. We were looking for Himalayan Pink Salt and accidentally found the Kala Namak (black salt).

    Big block of black salt arrive to our supplier warehouse and they are hand hammered to small stone sizes then ship to us, it is a very time consuming and labor intensive process but creating jobs to the locals.

    Black Salt is very different than pink salt, it has a very smell of "boiled-eggs" (natural hot spring). After grinding the salt to powder form, the powder is pinkish purple with black specks.

    To make Kala Namak, block of salts undergo a heating process in the furnace with charcoals and other herbs for 24 hours. The process transforms naturally occurring sodium sulfate of the raw salt into hydrogen sulfide and sodium sulfide, giving the salt a strong "boiled-eggs" smell.

    There are many health benefits with the black salt. For example, it is used in in ayurveda as a digestive aid, it is used as bath salt or in soap to help skin problems, it is used in hair care for dandruff and to strengthen hair, and it helps in relieving muscle stiffness.

    Remember, Himalyan Black Salt is NOT always 100% black. It is dark browning pink.

    Kala Namak also known as the Himalayan Black Salt is a type rock salt produced mainly from the Himalayas of Nepal. We were looking for Himalayan Pink Salt and accidentally found the Kala Namak (black salt).

    Big block of black salt arrive to our supplier warehouse and they are hand hammered to small stone sizes then ship to us, it is a very time consuming and labor intensive process but creating jobs to the locals.

    Black Salt is very different than pink salt, it has a very smell of "boiled-eggs" (natural hot spring). After grinding the salt to powder form, the powder is pinkish purple with black specks.

    To make Kala Namak, block of salts undergo a heating process in the furnace with charcoals and other herbs for 24 hours. The process transforms naturally occurring sodium sulfate of the raw salt into hydrogen sulfide and sodium sulfide, giving the salt a strong "boiled-eggs" smell.

    There are many health benefits with the black salt. For example, it is used in in ayurveda as a digestive aid, it is used as bath salt or in soap to help skin problems, it is used in hair care for dandruff and to strengthen hair, and it helps in relieving muscle stiffness.

    Remember, Himalyan Black Salt is NOT always 100% black. It is dark browning pink.

    Read more

  • Shea Butter Shea Butter

    Posted on by Jackson Fung

    Raw Unrefined Yellow Shea Butter

    1. Boiled for a shorter period of time.
    2. Harder and takes longer to absorb into the skin.
    3. A root from the Borututu tree is added, making it bright yellow color. (Borututu is a medicinal plant in Africa used to detox and wash.)
    4. Gives a bronze tan look to skin.
    5. Has a strong, natural smoky nutty scent.

    Raw Unrefined Ivory Shea Butter

    1. Boiled for a longer period of time for the light grey off-white color.
    2. Lighter and absorb into the skin faster.
    3. No additives added.
    4. Does not tan of skin.
    5. The smoky nutty scent is slightly less strong than Yellow Shea Butter.

    Refined Shea Butter

    1. Bleach to pure white color.
    2. Deodorize to remove the nutty scent.
    3. It is considered to be less effective than the raw unrefined shea butter.
    4. Used for making unscented.
    5. Used in products with added scent (perfume).

    In raw form, shea butter contains moisturizing nutrients and rich in vitamins.  It is very useful in treating skin conditions from dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, to stretch marks.

    While the refined form, it may loose some of the natural nutrients during the refinement process, it is still popular among crafters to make skincare products without the nutty scent and color.

    We import our Raw Unrefined Shea butter from a reputable supplier to ensure authenticity and quality, both yellow and ivory shea butters are great to use directly on the skin without grainy sand like particles.

    Raw Unrefined Yellow Shea Butter

    1. Boiled for a shorter period of time.
    2. Harder and takes longer to absorb into the skin.
    3. A root from the Borututu tree is added, making it bright yellow color. (Borututu is a medicinal plant in Africa used to detox and wash.)
    4. Gives a bronze tan look to skin.
    5. Has a strong, natural smoky nutty scent.

    Raw Unrefined Ivory Shea Butter

    1. Boiled for a longer period of time for the light grey off-white color.
    2. Lighter and absorb into the skin faster.
    3. No additives added.
    4. Does not tan of skin.
    5. The smoky nutty scent is slightly less strong than Yellow Shea Butter.

    Refined Shea Butter

    1. Bleach to pure white color.
    2. Deodorize to remove the nutty scent.
    3. It is considered to be less effective than the raw unrefined shea butter.
    4. Used for making unscented.
    5. Used in products with added scent (perfume).

    In raw form, shea butter contains moisturizing nutrients and rich in vitamins.  It is very useful in treating skin conditions from dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, to stretch marks.

    While the refined form, it may loose some of the natural nutrients during the refinement process, it is still popular among crafters to make skincare products without the nutty scent and color.

    We import our Raw Unrefined Shea butter from a reputable supplier to ensure authenticity and quality, both yellow and ivory shea butters are great to use directly on the skin without grainy sand like particles.

    Read more